Cheesemaking

The magic and science of cheesemaking

For thousands of years, humans have created a dazzling array of cheeses from four simple ingredients: milk, salt, cultures, and coagulants. The process is highly scientific, involving incredibly precise temperatures, humidity, time, and aging techniques. Yet, the results of cheesemaking are magical, producing strikingly different varieties that range from aged parmesan and sharp cheddar to mild havarti, fresh mozzarella, and pungent blue cheese.

Wisconsin: Where cheesemaking is a way of life

Wisconsin has a well-earned reputation as a cheesemaking powerhouse. We are home to 1,200 licensed cheesemakers who produce over 600 varieties, types, and styles of cheese. In fact, if Wisconsin were a country, we would rank #4 in the world in cheese production, ahead of all other countries except for the U.S., France, and Germany. We also have one of only two of the most prestigious Master Cheesemaker programs in the world, so it’s no surprise that we’ve won more awards for cheese than any other state or country. For example, Sartori SarVecchio® Parmesan, aged for over 20 months, has won countless accolades. So has Edelweiss Creamery Swiss Emmentaler, a cheese produced in 180-pound wheels using Old World techniques and tools like a traditional copper kettle. Roelli Cheese Haus’ Red Rock is an innovative variety that blends unique natural-rind cheddar with beautiful blue veins to yield a tender-yet-sharp bite. And Widmer’s Cheese Cellars Brick is a Wisconsin Original that’s made with the same bricks and vats used by four generations of cheesemakers. When it comes to cheesemaking, there’s no place on earth that’s as devoted to cheese as Wisconsin.

All about cheesemaking

The history of cheesemaking

The earliest evidence of cheesemaking dates back thousands of years to 2,800 BCE. Cheesemaking techniques have evolved considerably over the intervening 5,000 years, and cheesemakers are still inventing new kinds of cheese each year.

How cheese is made

While cheesemaking methods vary by variety and cheesemaker, the same basic principles have remained unchanged for thousands of years.

• Milking: Milk is collected from dairy animals like cows, sheep, goats, water buffalo, reindeer, and even yaks. Cheesemakers check and test the milk to make sure it’s suitable for cheesemaking. They may also pasteurize it to kill harmful bacteria. To start the process of making cheese, the milk is heated until it reaches the perfect acidity level for the kind of cheese being made.
• Curdling: This is the fundamental transformation in cheesemaking, where coagulants like rennet or enzymes are added to the milk to form solid milk curds. Additionally, cultures of beneficial bacteria are added to the milk to begin converting lactose to lactic acid in a process that will determine the flavor, aroma, and texture of the cheese.
• Separating: Cheesemakers separate the solid milk curd from the watery whey, which is a byproduct of curdling. Gentle separation results in softer cheeses with higher moisture content, while cutting the curd expels more whey and results in harder cheeses. The smaller the curd is cut, the more dense the final cheese will be. When the whey reaches the perfect level of acidity, it’s drained from the milk curd.
• Shaping: The milk curd is placed or pressed into molds or hoops to give it shape.
• Salting: Once out of the mold, the cheese is soaked in a salty brine or rubbed or sprinkled with salt. The salt will impact the cheese’s flavor and helps to preserve it as it ripens.
• Aging: During the aging or cheese ripening process, chemical interactions among the fats, proteins, bacteria, moisture, yeast, mold, enzymes, and salt within the cheese result in changes to flavor and texture.

Affinage: The art of aging cheese

Affinage is the practice of allowing cheese to age in a controlled environment to influence its flavor, texture, and quality. As cheese ages, affineurs carefully monitor elements like temperature, humidity, airflow, and the growth of microbes within the cheese. These factors are instrumental in breaking down the proteins and fats in the cheese, changing the texture from creamy to crumbly, and taking the flavor from mild to sharp or pungent. Cheesemakers use a variety of techniques to achieve the perfect taste and texture: they may wash the cheese with brine, wine, or beer. They may regularly turn the cheese to ensure the uniform growth of mold and bacteria. And they may introduce moisture, air, and strains of mold to nurture the optimal flavor of the cheese.

Types of cheese

The cheesemaking process yields a remarkable array of different cheeses, which are categorized by the way in which they’re allowed to ripen.

• Fresh cheese is ready to eat within a few hours or a few days of being made. Fresh cheeses like halloumi, ricotta, feta, mozzarella, and mascarpone have a creamy texture, no cheese rind and flavors that are alternately described as milky, sweet, refreshing, citrusy, or acidic.
• Young cheeses like monterey jack, butterkäse and mild cheddar are aged for one to three months, resulting in mild flavors and creamy, milky textures.
• Semi-hard and semi-soft cheeses like havarti, gouda or iberico cheese are ripened for several months or more to develop a stronger flavor and a balanced texture that’s not too soft or too firm.
• Washed-rind cheeses like brick or limburger are regularly washed with a salty brine, wine, or beer as they age to encourage the growth of the bacteria that give these varieties their strong aroma and flavor.
• Surface-ripened cheeses like brie or camembert are treated with mold and bacteria that ripen the cheese from the outside in, developing a soft, bloomy rind and a creamy interior.
• Blue-veined cheeses like roquefort or gorgonzola are made by adding molds to the milk that result in blue or green veins in the cheese as it ripens.
• Hard cheeses like parmesan or aged cheddar ripen slowly over months or years, developing a firm, crumbly texture, and strong, sometimes pungent flavor.

Cooking and drinking with cheese

Kitchen favorites

Cheese can add creamy texture and tangy flavor to a wide variety of dishes.

• Fresh cheese: The mild, creamy texture and high moisture content of fresh cheeses make them perfect for lighter dishes. Mozzarella is a natural for pizza, while ricotta is amazing in lasagna or stuffed pasta. Fresh goat cheese does wonders with salads, and burrata is a dreamy appetizer when drizzled with olive oil and balsamic vinegar and served with fresh tomatoes.
• Soft cheese: Cheeses like brie and camembert can be baked with honey or fruit preserves to create an easy appetizer. Cream cheese is the very essence of cheesecakes, while triple cream cheese spread on crackers or bread delivers a decadent flavor experience.
• Semi-soft cheese: These flavorful varieties are perfect for melting into a wide range of dishes. Cheeses like fontina, havarti, young gouda, or muenster can add a layer of creamy goodness to pasta, grilled cheese sandwiches, grilled burgers, and roasted vegetables.
• Hard cheese: With strong flavors and dense texture, hard cheeses are excellent for grating or shaving over pasta, salads, soups, or casseroles.
• Blue cheese: Earthy, pungent blue cheeses add bold flavor to salads, salad dressings, burgers, and creamy dips.

How to pair cheese and beverages

Choosing the right wine, beer, or spirit is one of the great pleasures of enjoying cheese. While the right choice of beverage depends on the type of cheese, there are a few general guidelines you can rely on.

1. Match flavors and intensity. Bold cheeses will do better with robust wines, stronger beers, or spirits with higher alcohol content. For more milder varieties, choose a lighter beverage that won’t overpower the delicate flavor of the cheese. For example, a crisp lager or pilsner will go well with fresh, young cheeses, as will light spirits like a gin or vodka. In contrast, the tannins in a bold red wine will match the dense texture and robust taste of aged cheeses, as will darker beers like stouts or porters.
2. Complement or contrast: When pairing cheese and beverages, you can choose either to find complementary or contrasting flavors and textures. For instance, a creamy, bloomy-rind cheese like brie can be complemented by a creamy, lightly oaked chardonnay, or contrasted by the acidity and effervescence of a sparkling wine.
3. Pair salt with sweet or bitter: Saltier cheeses, like blue cheese or feta, often pair well with sweeter beverages or with the hoppy bitterness of an IPA beer.