Cheese is far more than just food—it’s a global symbol of craftsmanship, a marriage of science and art that has been perfected over millenia. From the creamy smoothness of fresh mozzarella to the distinct zest of blue cheese, every variety tells a story of transformation, tradition, and taste.
In this guide, we’ll take you on a journey through the cheesemaking process, uncovering the science behind transforming milk into cheese, exploring the artistry that makes each type of cheese unique, and celebrating Wisconsin’s rich history as the State of Cheese. Along the way, we’ll break down the essential steps of cheesemaking, delve into its fascinating evolution, and answer your most pressing questions about this beloved food.
The Basics of Cheesemaking
Cheesemaking is like magic—milk is turned into a solid by separating its water and curds, then transformed with time, salt, cultures, and sometimes even mold into the cheeses we know and love.
Four Main Ingredients
At the heart of cheesemaking are a few simple but essential ingredients, each contributing a vital role as milk becomes cheese.
- Milk: The foundation of cheese, whether sourced from cows, goats, or sheep. Each type of milk contributes unique flavors and textures to the final product.
- Cultures: Friendly bacteria that start the cheesemaking process by converting lactose (milk sugar) into lactic acid. These cultures help acidify the milk and define the flavor and character of the cheese.
- Rennet: An enzyme that curdles the milk, helping it coagulate and form curds. It can be animal-based, microbial, or plant-based to accommodate different cheesemaking methods.
- Salt: Essential for preservation, salt enhances the flavor, draws out moisture, and helps develop the texture of the cheese.
- Mold (Bonus Ingredient): For certain types of cheese, friendly mold is introduced to create distinctive flavors and appearances, like the blue veins in gorgonzola or the bloomy rind of brie.
Core Process
Cheesemaking follows a series of carefully orchestrated steps, each designed to manipulate milk’s natural components into the flavors and textures we love. It can also get a whole lot more complicated (and we’ll explore this in depth later!), but consider this the cliff notes:
Acidification: Starter cultures or an acid of some kind are added to milk to lower its pH and begin breaking lactose down into lactic acid. For some cheeses, specific molds are also introduced during this step to contribute unique flavors and textures.
Coagulation: Rennet or acids are added to curdle the milk, forming a gel-like structure. This step is crucial for separating the solids (curds) from the liquid (whey).
Cutting the Curd: The curd is carefully cut into smaller pieces, which helps release whey. The size of the curd pieces determines the cheese’s moisture level—larger pieces retain more moisture for soft cheeses, while smaller pieces result in firmer cheeses.
Draining and Shaping: The curds are drained of whey, salted for preservation and flavor, and pressed into molds to form the cheese’s shape. For cheeses like blue cheese, the molded curds are pierced to allow air in, encouraging the growth of the desired mold.
Aging: Cheeses are aged in controlled environments for varying times to develop their flavor and texture. During this stage, enzymes and bacteria continue to transform the cheese, creating complex and bold flavor profiles over time.
A Journey Through Wisconsin Cheesemaking History
Becoming The State of Cheese
Wisconsin’s reign as the nation’s cheesemaking leader is no accident—it’s the product of rich dairy resources, skilled craftsmanship, and a deep-rooted cultural appreciation for cheese. In the 19th century, European immigrants, particularly those from Germany, Switzerland, and Scandinavia, brought their centuries-old cheesemaking techniques to the fertile farmland of Wisconsin. They found the state’s rolling pastures and terroir perfect for replicating and adapting their traditional recipes while exploring new ones.
By the mid-1800s, Wisconsin had firmly established itself as a hub for dairy and cheese production, fueled by the influx of skilled immigrants and the state’s unmatched natural resources. This fusion of heritage and opportunity earned Wisconsin its well-deserved title as The State of Cheese.
Innovation and Tradition
Wisconsin’s cheesemaking story is one of balancing innovation with tradition, of constantly pushing boundaries while honoring its roots.
- Diverse Cheese Production: While Wisconsin is renowned for its iconic cheddars, the state has expanded its repertoire to include an incredible range of specialty cheeses, such as creamy havarti, robust gruyere, and even bold, spicy varieties like ghost pepper jack.
- Cultural Identity: Over time, cheesemaking became synonymous with Wisconsin’s identity, and its dedication to quality has only deepened. By combining age-old European methods with local adaptations, Wisconsin cheeses have become a global benchmark for taste and craftsmanship.
Modern Excellence
Wisconsin’s enduring success lies in its ability to merge generations of knowledge with modern expertise. Rather than relying solely on advanced technology, the state’s cheesemakers continue to value the artistry and science of cheesemaking equally. This commitment has led to the creation of the only Master Cheesemaker program outside of Europe, a rigorous certification that elevates Wisconsin’s cheesemakers to an elite level.
The program emphasizes not only technical precision but also the artistry, patience, and passion that define truly exceptional cheeses. Today, only 112 cheesemakers have reached Master status, a fact that speaks to the rigor of the program and its status as the gold standard in the industry.
- Award-Winning Legacy: With this unparalleled dedication to quality, it’s no surprise that Wisconsin cheeses win more awards than those from any other state or country. From traditional cheddars to inventive hybrids, Wisconsin cheese reflects a fearless spirit of innovation grounded in craftsmanship.
- The Perfect Blend: What makes Wisconsin cheese so extraordinary is not cutting-edge technology but the seamless blend of heritage, skill, and modern scientific understanding. The state’s cheesemakers combine centuries of tradition with boundless creativity to craft cheeses that are celebrated around the world.
Breaking Down the Cheesemaking Steps in Detail
Step 1 - Acidification
What Happens:
The cheesemaking journey begins with acidification. Milk is gently warmed to a specific temperature, usually between 85°F and 105°F, depending on the type of cheese being made. Starter cultures—carefully selected strains of bacteria— or some kind of acid are then added. These cultures consume lactose, the natural sugar in milk, and convert it into lactic acid. This acidification lowers the pH of the milk, setting the stage for coagulation while also beginning to develop the cheese’s flavor profile. Different cultures are chosen depending on the desired cheese type; for example, mesophilic cultures are used for soft cheeses, while thermophilic cultures thrive in higher temperatures needed for harder cheeses like parmesan.
Impact:
Acidification plays a critical role in determining the cheese’s flavor and texture. The lactic acid produced during this step not only makes the milk ready for coagulation but also influences the depth of flavor in the final product. For some softer, fresh cheeses like ricotta, direct acidification using citric acid, lemon juice, or vinegar contributes to a relatively mild, sweet, creamy taste. (More on these in a moment.) In aged cheeses like cheddar, a more pronounced acidification process lays the groundwork for sharper, more robust flavors.
Step 2 - Coagulation
What Happens:
Once the milk has been acidified, the next step is coagulation, where milk transitions from a liquid state to a gel-like solid. Rennet, a natural enzyme, is added to the acidified milk. Traditionally derived from the stomach lining of calves, rennet contains chymosin, which works to cleave kappa-casein proteins in the milk. This allows the proteins to bond together, trapping fat and water to form curds. Modern cheesemakers often use microbial or plant-based rennet to accommodate vegetarian preferences. Alternatively, acidic agents like lemon juice or vinegar can be used for certain fresh cheeses.
Impact:
Coagulation creates the curds, which are the foundation of every cheese. The texture of these curds—soft, rubbery, or firm—is determined by the speed and intensity of coagulation. This step also influences the final moisture content of the cheese. For cheeses like mozzarella, quick coagulation results in elastic, stretchy curds. In contrast, slower coagulation in hard cheeses like parmesan yields a denser, more compact structure.
Step 3 - Cutting and Draining the Curds
What Happens:
Once the curds have formed, they are cut into smaller pieces using specialized knives or wires. This process releases whey, the liquid portion of milk, and begins shaping the cheese’s moisture content and texture. The size of the cut matters greatly: larger curds retain more moisture and are ideal for soft cheeses, while smaller curds expel more whey, leading to firmer cheeses like gouda or parmesan. Additional techniques, such as stirring or gently heating the curds, can further control whey expulsion.
Special processes come into play for specific cheeses. For example:
- Cheddaring: In cheddar production, curds are allowed to form mats that are then cut, stacked, and flipped repeatedly to press out whey and develop a dense texture.
- Washing Curds: For cheeses like gouda, the curds are washed with water to remove excess lactose, creating a sweeter, milder flavor.
Impact:
Cutting, stirring, and draining curds determines the cheese’s final texture and moisture level. This step is particularly important for defining the creamy decadence of brie, the elasticity of mozzarella, or the crumbly nature of aged parmesan. Additionally, washing curds can add unique flavor notes such as sweet and nutty.
Step 4 - Salting and Shaping
What Happens:
After draining, the curds are salted and shaped into their final form. Salt can be added in three ways: directly mixed into the curds, applied to a freshly made wheel, or soaking the cheese in a brine bath. Beyond enhancing flavor, salt acts as a preservative, preventing unwanted bacterial growth and drawing out additional moisture. The salted curds are then placed into molds, where they are pressed to remove the remaining whey and give the cheese its desired shape and density. The amount of pressure applied depends on the cheese type—soft cheeses require minimal pressing, while hard cheeses are subjected to greater pressure.
Impact:
Salting and shaping are critical for flavor, texture, and longevity. Salt brings out the subtle nuances of the cheese’s flavor and contributes to the development of its rind. Pressing the curds into molds ensures a consistent shape and prepares the cheese for aging. For example, this gives gouda and cheddar their characteristic round wheel shapes, while colby can take on its signature log shape.
Step 5 - Aging (Optional)
What Happens:
The final step—usually skipped for fresh cheeses—is aging, also known as affinage. Cheeses are placed in specially designed aging rooms, where temperature, humidity, and airflow are carefully controlled. During this period, enzymes and bacteria within the cheese continue breaking down proteins and fats, creating complex flavors and altering the cheese’s texture. Aging can last anywhere from a few weeks to several years, depending on the type of cheese.
Certain techniques are used during aging to influence flavor and texture:
- Washed Rinds: Cheeses like limburger are regularly washed with brine infused with specific bacteria to create a rich, earthy flavor and a soft rind.
- Bloomy Rinds: Brie and camembert develop their soft, velvety rinds through exposure to specific molds.
- Natural Rinds: Hard cheeses like parmesan form a natural rind as they age, contributing to their firm texture and sharp flavor.
Impact:
Aging is where mild cheeses transform into bold, complex masterpieces. Time intensifies flavor, creating the nutty, crystalline texture of aged gouda or the sharp, savory depth of extra-mature cheddar. Each element of the aging process—from environmental factors to rind treatments—adds a unique layer of complexity to the final product.
FAQs About Cheesemaking
How does milk turn to cheese?
Milk turns into cheese through a process involving acidification, coagulation, and separation of curds and whey. Starter cultures or an acid are added to the milk, rennet is used to form curds, and the curds are then shaped, salted, and sometimes aged to develop flavor and texture.
Is cheese made from milk or mold?
Cheese is primarily made from milk, but mold plays a critical role in certain varieties. Blue cheeses like gorgonzola and roquefort owe their signature veins to molds, while brie and camembert develop their soft, bloomy rinds through specific mold exposure.
What breaks milk down into cheese?
Starter cultures and rennet are the key agents that start to break milk down into cheese. Cultures convert lactose into lactic acid, lowering the milk’s pH, while rennet causes proteins to coagulate, forming curds that can be shaped into cheese.
What gives cheese its flavor?
Cheese flavor comes from a combination of factors: the type of milk used, starter cultures, rennet, salt, and aging conditions. The breakdown of proteins and fats during aging creates the complex, unique flavors found in aged cheeses.
Who invented cheese?
There is no single documented inventor or origin for cheese! One possible way cheese originated thousands of years ago is when early people set out milk as an offering to the gods. After long hours outdoors in the sun, natural microbial activity turned it into early cheese. The process was refined and tweaked as it spread across time and peoples.
Why isn't yogurt cheese?
While yogurt and cheese share similarities, yogurt doesn’t go through the coagulation and whey-separation processes that define cheesemaking. Yogurt remains semi-liquid and relies on fermentation alone, without the structural transformation curds undergo.
What is the easiest cheese to make?
Fresh cheeses like ricotta, paneer, and mozzarella are the easiest to make. They require minimal equipment, no aging, and can be made in just a few hours with simple ingredients like milk, acid, and salt.
